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7466 Beechmont Ave.
Anderson Towne Center
Good Fellow’s Just Opened in the Anderson Towne Center. So new, they offer no phone number, or website, or posted address or hours anywhere online (except cincyvibe.com). As if they don’t want people to know they’re there yet. Normal for 1977, yet a sort of intentional ghosting today. Web invisible.
I spoke to an owner who confirmed the theory. “We want to keep it soft...” A temporary situation in the back of house is limiting the menu and food volume Good Fellow’s can produce. Fear not. The kitchen is still quite capable of feeding more than a few, and well.
Just how well? I judge that by price. The more it costs, the more I expect. What should you expect out of an $8 pizza? A $6 Sub or burger? Honestly, I’m a realist. I expect to see the same Sysco stuff most every other pub has. Any number of stuffed fried shapes of batter squirting cheese apps. Greasy grizzle studded beef patties under half ripe tomatoes atop a Sam’s Club bun burgers. Salt crusted Crinkle Cuts (with the obligatory hint of fresh freezer burn aroma). Frozen pizza dough discs under “Italian Blend” cheese product slathered in sweet sauce, topped with rabbit turd sausage. And always chicken wings in every variety.
That’s what typically passes for pub food these days. Seriously. Maybe, they go all out and throw in a few over priced frozen steak and chicken breast entrees (no doubt smothered in some “soon to be famous” BBQ sauce or some other sh!t). Perhaps a grease soaked heavily breaded frozen cod “loin”. That’s about it. I’m just telling the truth.
When I see pub’s with sandwiches at $10 and up, apps with vegetables in them, or any mention of “Scratch, Homemade, Made Fresh” or any other such term I expect the price will reflect the effort. Hopefully, it’s worth it. Because people prefer cheap to good.
Good Fellow’s is cheap. Two of us ate for $14. One $7 cheese pizza (Plain, the best way to test a pizza’s true merit). And one $6 Ribeye Steak Sub. Two waters kept the bill down (and they were good, many are not).
We tested the mega touch game’s tenacity while we waited. The Good Fellow’s decor is tasteful and bright. I admired the changes. The expensive stuff stayed, mostly color changes and furnishings were redone adding much needed “coze” to the room. Cozy cool to be specific. Not just cheaper than a total re-do, but smarter too.
My nose caused me to turn in time to see my food coming at me. A pretty, petite pizza and a fat philly cheese. Plus, two surprise sides of Mom’s pasta salad for true hospitality. They’re obviously damn proud of it (sweet sales technique too).
My wife nearly hates pizza. She loved it. No lies. The beauty is in the simplicity. A thin crust with chew, just enough good cheese, a smear of sauce throughout and browned edges. Dusted with an herb & salt mixture it sang. The sauce is an Ohio brand the owners have romanced for 25 years. The rest is just know how and good ingredients.
The Jersey man-sandwich was thick with minced ribeye. Crisp edges of tender meat singed by the broiler. Good cheese with golden peaks, sliced pepper and onion. Seasoned well throughout. Nice warm roll. They serve it with French dressing but I say it’s best as it sits. No sauce required.
Mom’s pasta salad was bright and bold. Dusted with Parmesan it cleansed the palate of pizza and refreshed the senses for another bite. Amen to mom.
The family that owns Good Fellow’s started in Clifton. Decided to come to the eastside to relax a little. Our server was an owner and few I’ve met are more genuinely attentive and concerned about our experience. No attitude’s or any of that “big shot” disposition that often comes with bar & restaurant ownership (why is that?). He explained but kept it brief. He listened without interrupting. He showed concern, smiling all the while.
I think Grandma’ and mom are in the kitchen. Dad is around somewhere (In the back room counting his weekly vig take no doubt). The son is out front and behind the bar (where the .45’s are). It’s a nice bar. Clean, well stocked and tended. The drinks go as cheap as the food. Within reason.
I hate to welcome our city friends by ratting out there secret but that’s the way it has to be (So we can beat the other rags to the review).
Good Fellow’s has class, quality, skill and pride on their side. But still they keep it cheap. With real hospitality to boot. I see no reason why the town will not embrace them. If this is what’s it’s like having Good Fellow’s in town... I’m pro Costa Nostra.
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